Portugal - Day 8
September 15, 2025: Today we went to the sardine shop that we were not atble to go to yesterday because it was closed on Sunday. This is the one that was on “Somebody Feed Phil” and has some great history, much of which we learned from the guy who waited on us. Founded in 1930 as a humble grocery called Mercearia do Minho, Conserveira de Lisboa soon became Lisbon’s go to shop for tinned fish. The founder, Fernando da Silva Ferreira, helped steer it from a general grocer to a conservas (preserved goods) specialist. In 1942, the business adopted its current name and began to focus almost exclusively on canned seafood. We love that it is still family-run through multiple generations. The shop has preserved its wood-shelved 1930s look (see image above) and the charming ritual of hand-wrapping tins in brown paper and twine, which they did for us.
Next we took the Tram 15E along the waterfront to see the LX Factory. This is a vibrant creative hub set in a former 19th-century industrial complex beneath the Ponte 25 de Abril, a massive expansion bridge in Lisbon that pened in 1966, that is often compared to San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge because of its similar color and design (both were built by the same American company). Once home to factories and warehouses, it’s now filled with trendy restaurants, cafés, design shops, art studios, and bookshops. The walls are covered in colorful street art. There were so many food options and quirky little shops. We ended up eating at a restaurant call Mex Factory. It was a slightly modified take on Mexican food, but it was really good. We both our enjoyed our choices. We also spent some time on a rooftop bar relaxing with a pitcher of sangria. It was warm, but there was a nice breeze and we were able to secure a spot in the shade on a nice comfortable couch.
When we got back to the city center, we went to Museu da Cerveja (Beer Museum of Lisbon). This is a compact museum that walks you through the history of beer and the traditions of Portuguese-speaking countries. There are artifacts, maps, reconstructions and brewing tidbits to keep it interesting and ends with a small tasting. It was worth the small entry fee.
Our last big agenda item of the day was our dinner and Fado show. We had chosen to go to O Faia because of it’s long history and great reviews. In the late 1940s, O Faia began as Adega da Lucília (opened in 1946 by fado star Lucília do Carmo and her husband, Alfredo de Almeida) and took on its current name in 1947. Their son Carlos do Carmo grew up in the house and ran it from 1963 to 1980, a golden era that drew fado greats who performed there. In 1980, ownership passed to António Ramos and his sons who have kept the intimate, wood-and-white-linen vibe alive. The service is definitely top notch and the food, while very unique, was very good. I am not sure I am a huge fan of Fado, but it was a nice experience.